Last Days...

We booked a flight from Luang Prabang (quite possibly the smallest airport on the planet, even smaller than Easter Island!) to Bangkok in Thailand.
Our final 5 days were spent preparing for our journey home to suprise both our families. Bangkok was a frantic place to end our travels with people constantly trying to rip us off with offers of 5 baht tuk-tuk rides and dodgy silk suits! It was good to chill out in cafes though and watch free film after film in the many bars.
Our taxi ride to Bangkok airport was with a driver whose multi-tasking abilities were quite amazing. I have never seen anyone drive, adjust radio, text, take glasses on and off (to text) and drink all at the same time!
After 12 hours, finally landing at Heathrow, our captain announced that it was "grey and raining" - we smiled at one another and realised that we were finally home.


Enjoying our last meal of the trip

We are home!

Most of you should now know that we are home. We suprised both our families two weeks ago (the main reason for the blog going silent!) and it was lovely to see them all again. Thank you to Kate, Nicola and Shona for organising everything and keeping it secret!
We are working on some blog posts to round up the trip. Keep checking and we will have them done soon...

Alms Giving-Luang Prabang.

Every morning at 6am the monks in Luang Prabang undertake Alms Giving. People line up, kneeling along the main road and the monks accept gifts of food, usually sticky rice.

"Buddhism, alms or almsgiving is the respect given by a lay Buddhist to a Buddhist monk. The monk will then pray for the giver's family or requested others. It is not charity as presumed by Western interpreters. It is closer to a symbolic connection to the spiritual and to show humbleness and respect in the presence of normal society. The visible presence of monks is a stabilizing influence. The act of alms giving assists in connecting the human to the monk and what he represents"-Wikipeida.

NB: All posts are not written by Stephen but Rebecca-as if taking credit for my pictures wasn't enough!

Trekking in the hills of Northern Laos

The day after the Elephant Camp we set off for a 10km walk. This does not sound far but Laos is quite mountainous and did we tell you all how hot it is out here? La, our guide, took us into the hills, which took us through different villages and introduced us to three tribes who live in Laos. During the day we also experienced three different languages, which caused us great confusion. Our guide, La, was from Vientiane province and was from the Hmong tribe. He shared many stories with us about how these tribes live and it was interesting to hear him speak Hmong. It sounds very similar to Chinese. It was an amazing day and interesting to see people living as they would have done a hundred years ago.


The beautiful mountains in Northern Laos-Luang Prabang province.


Trekking towards the mountains.


Walking through a corn field.


A Laos style house.


After two hours we reached our first village. Here Khmu people live. They originate from the Khmer people in Cambodia. This man was making a bamboo basket which can take anywhere from three to seven days. We had a drink at the chief's house who was planting aubergine with his grandson, wearing Boca Juniors shorts...not quite how I imagined a chief. The chief is chosen by the villagers and they can choose to accept or decline. It does not run in the family but is decided on a person's merit.


We stopped at this woman's hut. She lived there with her husband, her family and two children. She is from the Khmu Tribe. When married the man goes to live with her family, which differs from many other cultures in Asia. She brought her two month old baby out to see us. She gave birth here, in the middle of nowhere, with help from some local woman. Not a doctor in sight.


We arrived at the Hmong Village two hours after the first village. Hmong people usually live higher in the mountains. The people here were very shy but very hospitable. We sat at a man's house and the children played around us. It was humbling to see how happy they were, despite having very little. As we walked around we noticed they had no water pump. Most villages we had been through had access to clean water. These people filter it with rice but it does not clean it completely. La told us that the government decide where they will put the water pumps. This village missed out! They don't need any interference from the outside world but surely they have the right to clean drinking water


This boy was brave enough to have a go with Stephen's camera and took a nice shot of Stephen.


Two more hours walking and we arrived at the bottom of the mountains to this Laos community village. As we arrived the heavens opened and we took refuge in a kind lady's house. The children were running around squealing with delight wearing nothing but plastic carrier bags on their heads-to keep their hair dry?


Wet and very happy!


Two teenagers look bored as the rain falls.


Stephen wading through the flooded areas to get to the boat.


Heading back to camp along the Nam Khan river which feeds into the Mekong. This man is fishing with a net; a common sight along the river.

Elephant Camp

There are lots of opportunites to do activities in and around Luang Prabang. After much deliberation we decided to visit the Elephant Camp and do a trek the next day. We chose these activities because the company employ many people from a local village and some of the profits go to this village to help with schooling and health care. We were to spend the day with Mahouts, who are people who train elephants. We naively thought that the elephants would have a lot of freedom as the company spoke of how the elephants had been rescued from logging. It was indeed true that the elephants were better treated than when they were subjected to logging but still they are tied up when not moving and they carry tourists everyday. I personally did not enjoy riding an elephant ( and you are probably wondering why we did but as I said, we thought we were making a good choice) and felt very guilty the whole time. It is, however, a catch-22 situation. If you don't rescue these elephants, they will be subjected to logging which abuses not only them but the environment. It is impossible to let them go as they are domesticated and will be caught by someone else. Man and elephant compete for space in Laos and it appears that man is winning. However, as tourists we do not help as we are creating a demand for elephant riding! We also had to remember that the livelyhood of many families was reliant on this camp and the elephants. Laos was once called lan Xang which means 'Land of a Million Elephants'. It would be lovely to see these amazing creatures roaming wild again but this seems bleak at present. We have no answer to how to better this situation but in hindsight we would rather find alternative ways in supporting the local communities.


Stephen stood in the poo!


Washing the elephants.

Luang Prabang, Laos

The city of Luang Prabang in northern Laos is the key draw for most visitors to the country. It has a stunning location on the banks of the Mekong River surrounded by lush green mountains and jungle. It has been awarded UNESCO status and as such is visually gorgeous.


We walked to the top of Phu Si, which looks over Luang Prabang. We headed up to watch the sun set and suddenly this storm descended upon us. We got very wet!


At the top of Phu Si before the storm came.


Funeral Chariot at Wat Xieng Thong temple.


Storm descending.


A mosaic at Wat Xieng Thong temple. The temple is from the 16th Century. This is the first time we had seen this style in Asia.


Protection from the sun and rain!


The Hmong Market in Luang Prabang. The goods are made by the Hmong people, a tribe who live in the mountains of Laos and are originally from South China ( before the Laos border was created) Many Hmong people also live in America as they fled Laos during Communism. It still is communist, though not as strict. However, many Hmong people will not return until it is democratic.

The bus journey from hell

The bus journey from Vientiane to Luang Prabang only takes 9 hours although it has to be the worst overland journey we have travelled. The scenery was stunning although I didn't see any of it as I felt like I was on the brink of vomiting the whole time. This stunning photo is credited to Rebecca.

Vientiane, Laos

It is just a quick flight from Phnom Penh to Vientiane. The capital city of Laos has to be the quietest, most laid back we have visited. Our taxi (we were not even offered a tuk-tuk!) was air-conditioned...real luxury. We spent a few days relaxing, seeing the sights (not many in a city of 200,000 people) and eating the excellent baguettes and coffee - remnants of this once French colony.


Early morning sunrise over a temple


Us at the Pha That Luang, the golden Stupa behind us appears on all the national currency


Rebecca at the Laos version of the Arc de Triomphe - Patuxai


Rebecca cycles through the main street of Vientiane. They seem to have a passion for roadworks only us brits can match!


A view from the Arc de Triomphe


People enjoy an evening stroll along the banks of the Mekong River


Stephen and his 25p rented bike. Yes, it is too small AGAIN.

New Angkor Slideshow

I have just added a new multimedia presentation including images and sound from Angkor in Northern Cambodia. Just click on the link above. Remember to have your sound turned on as well!

Stay Another Day

We wish we could but we have to leave Cambodia. We hope the blog has not become too intense recently. We do hope that we have managed to convey all the positives in Cambodia. On our last two days we decided to do a spot of shopping. We visited the Russian Market ( so named as the Russians were the only major foreign tourists here in the Eighties) and then using a booklet called 'Stay Another Day' which promotes sustainable tourism:
www.stay-another-day.org or www.sustainabletravelinternational.org
During our travels we had found out so often that we had stayed in a hotel or eaten at a restaurant owned by a foreigner, therefore not giving money back to the local people. Using this book we visited a handicraft shop called Nyemo (www.business.nyemo.com) which sold products made by local women who had been abandoned by their husband (tragically through AIDs or simply finding a new wife) This left them with no skills and children to provide for. This charity trains the women in skills such as weaving and their children are educated or looked after in the day care centre. After shopping we were given the opportunity to visit the workshops where the women work and see the children at school. Its just a shame we discovered this book so late into our travels.

We made arrangements to visit The Cambodia Trust: www.cambodiatrust.org.uk. This charity provides prosthetics for people who have lost a limb. During the war many mines were placed around Cambodia but no map was drawn up to show where they are. Many people have lost their limbs, particulary farmers and children. As we have travelled around Cambodia we have seen many amputees, many who beg because they are provided no social security and people will not employ them. This charity provides people with free prosthetics or orthotics (for people who have polio etc), allowing them to find work or for the children, play football. We were shown around by a lovely man who had lost his limb and had been trained by the school on how to make prosthetics. He showed us how they were made and then another very friendly man showed us around the school. Through scholarships they take in a mix of Cambodians and foreign asian students on a three year course training them how to make prosthetics and orthotics so they can take this skill to their own communities. As we walked around the hospital we saw people being fitted with prosthetics and having physio. We also saw a few children with huge smiles on their faces ( of course-this is Cambodia! ) It is an amazing charity but still their tools are rudimentary compared to what we have in the UK. Have a look at the website if you get a chance.

Well our time here has come to an end and we are off to Laos. It has been an amazing two weeks. We are astounded by the resillience and friendly nature of the people despite their recent history and current corrupt government. I think we both would like to return to Cambodia again- it is a place that is hard to forget.


A final wave goodbye.

The Killing Fields

After interrogation and torture at S-21 people were taken in a large cart 15km out of the city. Here they were murdered by the Khmer Rouge. On discovering this site in 1979, thousands of skulls were found. I first heard about the 'Killing Fields' when I was eight years old watching Blue Peter. We didn't stay for long... we had a choice.


The memorial to the victims. You can see all the mounds where the people were found.

Tuol Sleng- Former Khmer Rouge S-21 Prison.

Ponhea Yat used to be one of the largest high schools in Phnom Penh, but in 1975, after expelling all the people from Phnom Penh,the Khmer Rouge turned it into a prison, where innocent people were interrogated and tortured. The only evidence of the school was the building itself. Classrooms were turned into interrogation, torture rooms and cells. The playground was also the scene of torture rather than children playing. We hired a guide and she took us around the school building, showing us the rooms and cells. People would first be interrogated; accused of colluding with the CIA or having killed a Khmer Rouge soldier. Many of these people were teachers, doctors, professors, artists-people Pol Pot wanted to remove from the country. If they did not 'confess' they were tortured for up to two months. Their cells were tiny and they were shackled to short pieces of iron bar. From 1975-1979 20,000 people were tortured here and then murdered at the 'Killing Fields' 15km from the city. Some people did not make it this far and died from the horrific torture. When the Khmer Rouge were 'defeated' only seven people were found alive at the prison.


Tuol Sleng-A former high school.


Barb wire surrounded the prison to stop people escaping and to stop people from trying to commit suicide.


Rules translated. This is what people had to adhere to when under interrogation.


A torture room.


A cell.


When brought to the prison, a photograph was taken of each person. In this room we saw countless faces, men, women and children! We also saw photos of the Khmer Rouge, many of them young girls and boys. All horrific to see but the worst was the images of dead people who had been tortured.

Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh is the capital of Cambodia and it needs health warnings before entering. So far in Cambodia we have seen lots of motos but few cars. Phnom Penh has the lot with few rules! Innocently traversing the 'Pedestrian Crossing' we discovered that no one will stop. The skill it appears is to walk slowly and then people, cars, cows, tuk-tuks will go around you! I wasn't great at this skill but the local children were. Still, there are still far too many traffic accidents here.
The city has some very pretty parts especially along the Tonle Sap where families come to sit at night and have a picnic. Like many cities and so many places in Cambodia, there is a lot of poverty. There are many street children who become vunerable to drug abuse and abduction. We ate at a few restaurants that put money into getting these children off the streets.


The palace.

View of the Tonle Sap-early morning.


Slums in Phnom Penh. The reality of city life for many people.

Cooking Khmer Style

Stephen and I decided to take a Cambodian cooking class one morning. This involved choosing three dishes to cook, buying the items at the local market and somehow throwing them all together to make a tasty dish! The trip to the market was an experience. So far on our travels I have walked through the meat and fish sections of markets very quickly. This time we paused, selected and took our time ( to my senses dismay!) Our chef selected a LIVE fish and we watched the woman batter it and skin it. Fortunately our chicken was already dead but the woman was cleaning out intestines for soup! The Cambodians do eat everything, from the eyes to the bladder. This may be because they know what it is like to go without. It certainly shows you how sheltered we are when we pick our ready packed chicken off the shelf at Tescos. People here also like to eat a variety of critters and bugs. We have seen all sorts being sold by market vendors but we weren't brave enough to try. It is a while since I tried an ant in the Amazon! Anyway, back to the cooking lesson. Stephen shocked the whole group by chopping lemonglass with his cleaver like a pro! I have never seen this skill before and I live with him! The morning was huge fun. Unfortunately, our chef Stephen may be good with a meat cleaver but he isn't so good with cameras! He deleted all the photographic evidence!

Teaching at the Temple.

Cambodia has been full of twists and turns and not just on those motos! We met two really nice girls on the boat to Battambang, Sherie and Lisa. Stephen ran into them the next day and they had told him that they had been looking around the local temple and a buddhist monk had come up to them and asked if they would help in his English class. I joined them later and we were met with shy young adults who gradually plucked up the courage to ask us questions. Stephen and I visited the temple everyday until we left Battambang and I was the given the opportunity to teach. It was a lot of the fun and very memorable particularly when a young monk is playing your game with such enthusiasm that he is shouting out in english from the back of the room. Aok Sam Eath, the monk we became friends with, teaches monks and children from all over the area. His classes are much cheaper and his dream is to open his own NGO where he can teach English to children in rural areas and hopefully get the assistance from foreign teachers.


Aok and Rebecca playing a game ...not much teaching going on!


Rebecca, Aok and Stephen.

Day Two.

Back on the Motos we headed out to Phnom Sapcon- a temple on the top of a large hill surrounded by a small village. After a sweaty walk to the top we saw the 'Killing Caves'. This was an area the Khmer Rouge would bring the people in order to kill them. Mony shared many stories about this time and of his own personal experiences. Every person you see here who are in their late twenties and onwards are survivors. Mony himself was separated from his parents during this time and like all the people, was forced to work all day in the beating sun on the fields. For this they received a tiny amount of rice gruel and some days there would be less food, depending on whether the Khmer Rouge had spent big on arms! He tried to visit his mum one day and on his return he was spotted as an enemy...he was eleven years old! They attempted to shell him but amazingly he survived and made it back to camp! He did not find his parents for twenty years and even now he sees them rarely as they live in Phnom Penh. His story reflects so many people's.


Day two begins.


Killing Cave. Here people were taken and hit over the head to then fall into the cave. Thousands of people were murdered here.


The shrine in the cave to bring peace to the victims.


Rainy season.

Two children wave to us as we pass on our motos.


View from the temple.

After this we took an alternative trip back to Battambang...on the bamboo train. Whilst waiting for the train to be erected we chatted to a cambodian man who had lived in London in the sixties and he could still remember his address. The bamboo train is used by locals ( and tourists like us! ). It runs along a railway line which was built by the French. Only one train travels along here a week. Yes, I checked that it wasn't this particular day but we did meet other people along the way!



Preparing the bamboo train.


Loading up.


Stephen's feet and the wind in his ...hair?


We met another train along the way and they kindly dismantled their train to then put it back together again after we had passed.


This boy made his jump into the water once we were as close as possible.


Mony, Kip, Stephen and Rebecca. We had an amazing two days out thanks to these two.